Part Analysis
| General Data | |
| Manufacturer (OEM) | HKC |
| PCB Type | Double-Sided |
| Primary Side | – |
| Transient Filter | 4x Y caps, 2x X caps, 2x CM chokes, 1x MOV |
| Inrush Protection | 1x NTC Thermistor 5D-15 (5 Ohm @ 25°C) & Relay |
| Bridge Rectifier(s) |
2x GBU2506L (600V, 25A @ 100°C)
|
| APFC MOSFETs |
2x WayOn WML53N60C4 (600V, 26A @ 100°C, Rds(on): 0.07Ohm)
|
| APFC Boost Diode |
1x CH3D16065L
|
| Bulk Cap(s) |
2x Rubycon (420V, 470uF each or 940uF combined, 3000h @ 105°C, MXK)
|
| Main Switchers |
4x WayOn WML36N60F2 (600V, 20A @ 100°C, Rds(on): 0.11Ohm)
|
| APFC Controller |
Champion CM6502UHHX
|
| Resonant Controller | Champion CU6901VPA |
| Topology |
Primary side: APFC, Full-Bridge & LLC converter
Secondary side: Synchronous Rectification & DC-DC converters |
| Secondary Side | |
| +12V MOSFETs | 8x |
| 5V & 3.3V | 2x DC-DC Converters PWM Controller(s): ANPEC APW7159C |
| Filtering Capacitors | Electrolytic: 5x Nippon Chemi-Con (2-5,000 @ 105°C, KZE) 2x Nippon Chemi-Con (4-10,000 @ 105°C, KYA) Polymer: 35x no info |
| Supervisor IC | Weltrend WT7527RA |
| Fan Model | TT-1225 BDK12025MS (120mm, 12V, 0.30A, Fluid Dynamic Bearing Fan) |
| 5VSB Circuit | |
| Rectifier |
PJ1256
|
| Standby PWM Controller | PN8141 |
Contrary to the GF A3 1050W unit, which uses a different platform from the same OEM, HKC, the PCB is overpopulated. The heatsinks are pretty large, helping the fan speed profile to be more relaxed without jeopardizing the PSU’s reliability. What troubles me is the restricted free space between parts, which doesn’t help airflow. The caps on the secondary side are hidden below the 12V heatsink, so they don’t have a clear path to the fan’s airflow, affecting their reliability in the long run.
The build quality is good. HKC used quality capacitors everywhere, including the secondary side where stress is higher. Soldering quality is flawless; the same goes for the PCB’s coating. The cooling fan is by BaoDiKai, and its model number is BDK12025MS. It is supposed to use a fluid dynamic bearing, but I cannot be sure unless I destroy the fan to inspect its bearing. I would highly prefer a Hong Hua fan, but apparently, HKC doesn’t have close relations with this factory, so they either cannot get Hong Hua’s products or the prices are too high.
A full-bridge topology and an LLC resonant converter are used on the primary side. A synchronous rectification scheme is utilized on the secondary side for the 12V rail, along with a pair of DC-DC converters for the minor rails. The 1200W unit used Infineon FETs, so most likely, this one will use the same manufacturer (I couldn’t identify them). On the primary side, HKC went with Wayon FETs, which are not at the same quality level as the corresponding Infineon ones.
ha this is super weird! The one with the lower noise I guess!
Hello,
I have a strange thing to report about this exact model.
I thought the fan on the unit I had was dying because of a somewhat scratching noise when disabling smart fan off so I ordered a replacement unit from Amazon
The replacement unit is totally different from the one that I have. I have uploaded two photos of actual units and their boxes.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UaZksh86vbbGtET96
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CFjRCmtTqseHQDAu6
My previous unit seems to have the same pcb as in your review, only with two brown Nippon chemicon 470uf instead of your’s black Nichicon.
The newer unit seems to have:
– the fan partially wrapped in plastic in order to restrict airflow (I Guess)
– black thick heatsink similar to those of a cwt puq I had
– just one black Nichicon with 400v stamped on it and GG (M) (no micro Farad indication that I can get a glimpse of)
– different main transformer in a black monolith enclosure saying pq4040-a 2316 on it
– three big nude coils similar to those of PFC (but I am no expert)
– a fan that is even noisier (it resemble a track) when activated.
– different advertisement about efficiency and fan curve on the box (see the photo attached)
– cables pcb is disposed differently
I can attach a sound print in mp3 of both if needed.
I thought my fan was already defective but it seems this is even worse in a way. Wich one do you think would be better to keep?